“A Santo André de Teixido vai de morto que non foi de vivo” (saying that means those who do not go to Santo André de Teixido during their lifetime will do so after their death). This is the slogan of Galicia’s most popular pilgrimage which has been declared Festival of National Tourist Interest. A two-day package that will make you feel like a pilgrim journeying to Santo André de Teixido. You will be accompanied by a guide because, although the way is indicated, we want to make sure that you do not miss the legends and tales of these lands and that you remember to leave your mark on the milladoiros (stone mounds).
If necessary, or if you prefer, you can spend the previous night in the area where the stage begins; we can offer optional accommodation in Narón, 3 km from the monastery of O Couto, and you may leave your car at the hotel’s parking. Departure is first thing in the morning from the monastery of O Couto, jewel of Galician Romanesque architecture and symbolic point on the English Way to Santiago de Compostela. Accompanied by our guide, expert on routes and nature, we begin by taking the trail that runs parallel to the estuary: we pass by the tide mill of Aceas, by the Pazo Libunca (today a hotel) and we progress along this first stage of steep slopes that will reward us with spectacular views of the wild beach of Frouxeira in Valdoviño, fountains with legends, barrows and even abandoned churches, such as the church of San Pedro de Loira. Reaching the Capela da Fame (chapel of Hunger), we can stop to rest and get our strength back, just like pilgrims have been doing since it was built, in the 16th century. We then continue towards Porto do Cabo, meeting point for pilgrims from different places and which today preserves an interesting architectural ensemble that includes the house known as Casa da Bastona (ancient 16th century lodge), the medieval bridge and the river mills. We have reached the end of the stage if we are staying at the country guest house Casa Rural do Morcego, otherwise we continue for another 2.5 km to Sisalde, if we have chosen the other option; the country guest house Casa Rural A Pasada. Dinner and accommodation.
We enjoy a hearty and homemade breakfast before continuing the trail where we left off the previous day. We keep going uphill to enter the mountain range of Serra da Capelada. The views, now of the Cedeira estuary, are once again the reward for all our effort. In Reboredo we find the symbolic and beautiful chapel of San Roque and, close by, a fresh water fountain and a picnic area shaded by chestnut trees.
We are at the gateway to the rugged landscape of the mountain range of Serra da Capelada, and, from now on, we will be seeing wild horses that will be penned on the last Sunday of July during the “Rapa das Bestas do Curro da Capelada” (tradition of cutting the manes of wild horses while they are enclosed in the ‘curros’, or pens). We arrive at the Observation Point and Stone Cross of the Christ of Os Carrís. Finally we begin to see the milladoiros (small mounds of stones) and can leave proof of our pilgrimage by placing a stone on our favourite one. From here and only 2 km downhill we soon find another observation point, in Chao do Monte, which is where our path meets the one coming from Cedeira. It has a rest area with tables. We continue the steep downhill descent, which can be difficult if the ground is wet, towards the small village that we can now see, built around the chapel of Santo André. The sanctuary of Santo André is Gothic-Baroque, and has undergone several reforms since it was built. The devotion to the saint is clearly seen by the many votive offerings deposited before the altar and, if we are to do likewise, upon exiting the chapel we must continue towards the cliffs and reach the fountain of the three spouts. The legend says that if we drop a piece of bread crumb inside and it floats, we will be lucky and our wish will come true. We take some time off to enjoy the moment and the place, eat some barnacles at one of the village taverns and, at mid afternoon a taxi picks us up to return to Narón (1 hr) or to our chosen accommodation, for you can lengthen your stay at any of the guesthouses and travel the Costa Ártabra from Ferrol to Cedeira, with its white sandy beaches, cliffs, lighthouses and observation points, without neglecting the Atlantic gastronomy.
CR A Pasada (includes bicycle loan): 95 €
CR do Morcego (includes one free hydrojet session): 112 €
1 night stay half board (breakfast and dinner).
2 days guide service, expert in trails and nature.
Taxi service for 4 persons to return from Santo André de Teixido to Narón or to accommodation.
CR A Pasada
Extra night accommodation and breakfast: 28 €
Extra night half board (breakfast and dinner): 40 €
CR do Morcego
Extra night accommodation and breakfast: 33 €
Extra night half board (breakfast and dinner): 50 €
Optional: extra night in 4-star Hotel Husa Odeón in Narón, accommodation and breakfast with free parking for 2 days: 30 €