Turismo de Galicia

It’s well worth arriving early to this magical place. Its bucolic landscape, peaceful atmosphere, and the warmth of its people offer the perfect gateway to begin our walk the following day. You can still visit one of the forges that gave the village its name, carefully restored to prevent it from being lost to modernity. There was also an “English Hospital” here, already mentioned in 1178, although only the place name remains. The name may be confusing, as most English and Northern European pilgrims arrived in Galicia by sea and continued on foot to Compostela (which is how the English Way from Ferrol got its name), but some scholars relate it to the pilgrimage of King Henry II of England, possibly the hospital’s founder.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Casa Lixa or similar

We begin our journey along the Vía Künig by leaving Las Herrerías behind and heading toward Pedrafita do Cebreiro. Pedrafita is certainly less known among Camino lovers than the tiny mountain village of O Cebreiro, which marks the entrance to Galicia, but we head to Pedrafita because the essence of the Vía Künig lies in its search for the easiest paths, constantly avoiding steep climbs. To enter Galicia from El Bierzo, one must cross the Ancares mountains, but the ascent from Las Herrerías to O Cebreiro can be quite exhausting compared to the gentler route to Pedrafita. Even so, this section is still demanding, so we’ll make it the shortest stage of the whole route to Santiago: just 9 km.

There are two options: the so-called “old road,” a disused stretch of the original N-VI highway, or the Camino de Santo Tirso, as described by Künig. We recommend the second, although it’s not suitable for bicycles. Following Künig’s guide, we leave the main road to the left and follow the signs for his route. Santo Tirso is just 1.6 km away, and from there the path winds through native forest and over small streams crossed by rustic log bridges that seem to have been there since the beginning of time.

We’ll then cross the N-VI, which in its various realignments has unfortunately damaged the beauty of this section and the spirit of the original Vía Künig. After passing under the A-6 motorway, we reach O Castro, the last village in El Bierzo. From there, the rest of the stage follows the old N-VI road, now largely unused. The stage ends in Pedrafita do Cebreiro, but given the short distance, we recommend climbing the extra 3.4 km to O Cebreiro to admire its traditional mountain architecture of pallozas and visit its church, where—according to legend—the Holy Grail is kept, once featured in the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Galicia.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Hotel Casa Pazos or similar

We continue our Camino de Santiago along the Vía Künig on a stretch now completely separated from the French Way. It's an easy and pleasant walk, as the entire route—following the old Royal Road—is flat or gently downhill (a welcome change after yesterday’s climb), and the scenery of rounded green hills and native forest is simply stunning. We’ll cross a couple of cattle grids used to control livestock, which lead us into small villages like Campa do Colmo or Casas da Serra, without services, though we may have the chance to chat with a local resident.

At 8 km into the stage, we reach O Castelo, a name that refers to an ancient and unexcavated Celtic hillfort, crowned by the small chapel of Santa Olaia. A couple of kilometers further on, we arrive in Doncos. In the past, it was the most important town between Villafranca del Bierzo and Lugo, and it still preserves fine hórreos (grain stores) that reflect its former prosperity, along with the nearby remains of an old tower.

From Doncos, the route enters a native chestnut forest and begins a steeper descent (with gradients reaching -24% in places). This stretch, known as the Costa de Espariz, was abandoned early on, replaced by a gentler path that later became the N-VI highway. Thanks to this, we can now enjoy the Royal Road just as it was traced in the 18th century. At the bottom of the descent, we’ll encounter the Valdeparada River and the first houses of As Nogais, a village with multiple services where this stage ends.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Hostal O Muíño or similar

The third stage of our Vía Künig leaves As Nogais by rejoining the path that runs parallel to the N-VI road toward A Ferraría, continuing on to Agüeira and Horta. Despite walking beside the national road, we’ll hardly notice any traffic, as it’s used only by the few residents of the area (most vehicles take the A-6 motorway). In Agüeira, a sign marks the way to the magical Bosque dos Grobos. It’s well worth the short 150-meter detour to see the impressive limestone formations sculpted by humidity. This small labyrinth of karstic rocks is one of those magical places that endure far from the hustle of the French Way.

Back on the main path, we pass through Horta, where the restored Mesón Vello stands as a beautiful example of the old inns that dotted roads and trails in the 19th century. After leaving Horta, we also leave the old N-VI, only to rejoin it later as we approach the imposing Cruzul Bridge—gateway to our stage's final destination, the town of Becerreá.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Casa Poy or similar

We resume our Camino de Santiago along the Vía Künig by leaving Becerreá and heading toward the Sanctuary of Ecce Homo in Cadoalla, whose origins date back to the late 12th century, although it was completely rebuilt as a sanctuary in 1727. Here begins a demanding ascent from 595 to 800 meters above sea level, with gradients ranging from 7% to 14%. The climb leads us to Cereixal, and from there we must rejoin the N-VI, as the original path no longer exists, until we reach the highest point at Campo de Arbre, where stunning views await. This section, however, is more moderate in slope, and after it, we begin the descent that takes us through some especially beautiful spots—such as the stretch known as the “Camiño de Arandedo,” which winds through native forest and offers a moment of absolute silence, broken only by birdsong and the gentle murmur of the Convento stream below us. Oaks, chestnut trees, moss-covered ancient walls, and ferns allow us to experience what Künig himself likely saw and felt when crossing these lands at the end of the Middle Ages.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Fonda Casa Lejo or similar

As we resume our journey along the Vía Künig from Baralla, we immediately begin climbing toward the villages of Ferreiros, Vilartelín, and Vilanova, walking beneath the shade of native trees and across livestock pastures. From Vilanova—where a traditional Galician pazo still stands, though only its outer walls are visible—we begin a series of descents leading to the end of the stage. The stretch to Santa Cruz is a gentle downhill walk, pleasant for its peacefulness, moss-covered stone walls, and natural surroundings. The distance, longer than previous stages, is the main challenge in an otherwise easy stage, which follows the Royal Road of Charles III and the old N-VI, crossing the A-6 motorway at several points via overpasses or underpasses.

Particularly scenic is the area around the Tórdea River, which we’ll cross via a traditional stone footbridge, near a small restored mill and a perfect resting area for a short break. Just a short distance beyond lies our accommodation. Unlike previous days, today’s stage doesn’t end in a town, as O Corgo—despite being the municipal capital—has no real central village.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Hotel Prados or similar with transfer

On this seventh day, we take on the longest stage so far of the Vía Künig, which began in Las Herrerías de Valcarce. Leaving our accommodation behind, the path leads us to Castrillón, a name that refers to the well-preserved castro (hillfort) located there. The strong walls that once protected it are impressive, and in the center stands the Chapel of San Bernabé, featuring an outdoor altar table made from a repurposed Roman milestone. From there, we continue through O Corgo. Not far from its town hall stands the Pazo de Valcarce, a magnificent example of 17th-century Galician manor house architecture. Without lingering too long, we head toward Lamas and cross the 17th-century Galiñeiros Bridge. From this point on, we begin to spot markers referencing the Roman Via XIX.

Soon, we enter the municipality of Lugo, reaching its first village, Coeo, which features an interesting parish church (with two naves joined transversely) and a beautiful peto de ánimas (wayside shrine for souls). From here, we follow a muleteers’ path marked with Roman milestones and will soon begin to sense our approach to Lugo, which during Roman times was the capital of the Conventus Lucensis and one of the most important cities of the Iberian Peninsula. We approach its urban area by following the Rato River, which leads into the streets of the Montirón neighborhood. We’ll cross these to reach the historic city center, enclosed by its Roman walls—a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Lugo is undoubtedly the most significant highlight of this route, thanks to its cultural and historical heritage, its Roman past, its endless list of points of interest, and the fact that here our Vía Künig intersects with the famous Primitivo Way coming from Asturias.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Hostal Alba Lugo or similar

To continue our Camino de Santiago toward the city of the Apostle, we now merge with the Primitivo Way—already one of the main pilgrimage routes to Compostela when Hermann Künig walked it. Coming from the quiet and solitary stages of this alternative route, we’ll immediately notice an increase in the number of fellow walkers. It won’t compare to busier routes like the French Way (which we’ll meet in the coming days) or the Portuguese Way, but certainly more than the handful of pilgrims we've encountered so far. In any case, it will be pleasant to share moments with others and perhaps tell them about the wonder that is the Vía Künig.

This stage takes us from the great Roman city to the tiny village of A Ponte Ferreira—a perfect place to rest after a long day with few services along the way. We leave Lugo through the Porta de Santiago, crossed by thousands of pilgrims over the centuries, and head toward the Miño River, following a path now richly marked with signs—a contrast we will quickly notice. Secondary roads and country trails through Galicia’s characteristic rural interior will accompany us until we reach the bucolic setting of Ponte Ferreira.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: O Lar do Alecrín or similar

This second stage along the Primitivo Way takes us to Melide, the point where the Vía Künig—now following the Primitivo route—finally merges with the French Way, the great pilgrimage route that leads on toward Compostela. The stage continues to offer beautiful examples of rural Galicia, in line with previous days, and passes through an agricultural landscape that still plays a key role in the region’s economy.

At the end of the day, we arrive in Melide, a small inland town in Galicia that hides the oldest stone cross (cruceiro) in the region and a tempting honey and cheese museum. And it’s no wonder: we are in the heart of the “Terra de Melide,” a region with a long cheese-making tradition protected under the Arzúa-Ulloa Designation of Origin. Anyone with a culinary interest (and who doesn’t have one?) should not leave Melide without trying pulpo á feira—the most iconic Galician octopus dish—and the melindres, the town’s typical sweet treat.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Pensión La Esquina or similar

On this tenth day of our adventure, the Vía Künig—which had separated from the French Way and followed the Primitivo Way over the past two stages—now returns to its origins and merges once more with the most important of all the Caminos de Santiago. Today we’ll walk a shorter distance than in previous stages: under 15 km, aligning our pace with that of the French Way, which traditionally stops in Arzúa. This stage may be demanding for pilgrims coming from Palas de Rei, but those arriving from Lugo via the Camino Primitivo are already used to the constant ups and downs. In any case, the day promises forested trails with ancient trees and charming spots like Ribadiso—the gateway to Arzúa.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Pensión Casa Elena or similar

The penultimate stage before reaching Santiago de Compostela begins as we leave Arzúa behind. Although we are drawing nearer to the capital of Galicia, and the flow of pilgrims and vehicle traffic increases at certain points—especially along stretches that run parallel to the N-547—this day remains shaped by the peaceful landscapes of forests and meadows that have defined our journey along the Vía Künig. Still, these natural surroundings will gradually be broken up more often by built-up areas. At the end of the stage, we reach O Pedrouzo, a modern town that has grown in response to the flow of pilgrims and offers a warm hospitality to all who pass through.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Pensión Lo or similar

At last! Final stage of our Camino de Santiago along the Vía Künig. Less than 15 km separate us from the famous Monte do Gozo—its name invoking the joy of those who, at last, can see the iconic towers of Santiago’s Cathedral just over 5 km away. From there, the entire route descends into the old town of Compostela, entering near what was once the Porta do Camiño in the city’s long-gone walls. All that remains is to walk over the centuries-old stones that lead us to the Plaza del Obradoiro. It doesn’t matter where we’re from, how far we’ve walked, or how many times we’ve done the Camino—it still overwhelms us with awe and a feeling that's hard to describe. Congratulations.

🛏️ Standard accommodation: Hostal Deniké or similar