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Costa da Morte


Costa da Morte

Here was the end of the world, the 'Finis Terrae' of the Romans. Specifically, Cabo Fisterra, a fascinating place...

Carnota - Monte Pindo


Carnota - Monte Pindo

Beaches, dunes and mudflats; cliffs, sea reserve...

Hidden Heritage

Treasures of Costa da Morte

Despite its name of "Costa da Morte" (Coast of Death) this section of the Galician coastline offers lessons on life, history and tradition in every village we visit.

Blessed by its share of lush nature, the Costa Verdescente (Verdant Coast) of Eduardo Pondal invites you to surrender yourself to its charms.


  • Starting point: Coristanco
  • Destination: Muxía
  • Days: 2
  • Km (approx.): 105 Km
My mother thinks I'm /  fishing in the oak grove; / I'm in San Fins do Castro / dancing a muñeira. / My mother, because she could, / built a house on the island, / to see how the people from Neaño / fish for sardines. / The priest in Corme is a tailor / a native of Malpica de Arba and a sailor. / The priest from Paxos is a ploughman / and the one from Cesullas is a piper. 
     Bagpipe-accompanied song sung en Cabana de Bergantiños
Other information of interest:
- Muíño do Forno do Forte: 981 711 520 www.concellomalpica.com/fornodoforte
- Interpretation Center of Dolmen de Dombate: Teléfono de atención a visitantes > 669 611 993.
- Torres do Allo: 981 706 028.
- Batáns de Mosquetín: 981 706 028.


Route - Day 1

We'll begin our first foray into the lands of the Costa da Morte in the Bergantiños orchard, as the Refuxio de Verdes is known, in the town of Coristanco.

If we were to look for the birthplace of the faery legends, this would be it. The hand of man – barely perceptible – maintains the balance and harmony of this enchanted place intact. The mills, tables, stone benches, canals and wooden bridges plunge us into a world full of life where it is Nature who imposes her will. Even the voluptuous trees freely invade everything with their vine-covered branches, and the rocks scattered along the River Anllón interfere with the continuous flow of water, creating rapids, waterfalls and pools at will.

But this former fishing preserve hides some secrets you'll be able to discover only if you hike the leaf-blanketed trails. Verdes is, without a doubt, a great place to relax and disconnect that allows us to spend an enjoyable day of swimming, as long as we are careful with the strong current in the river known as the “Pozo do Inferno" (Well from Hell).

We'll leave behind this little piece of paradise and head off to Malpica de Bergantiños, specifically the Ecomuseo Muíño de Forno do Forte (Muíño de Forno do Forte Ecomuseum) in Buño. This aim of this ethnographic complex is to show what life was like for the day labourers who combined their daily work in the fields with the production of pottery. According to linguists, the name of this town derives from the Latin buda, a kind of free-growing rush that grows in clay-rich soils like those found here. The abundance of this raw material was essential for the development of its most characteristic industry – pottery – which brought Buño international recognition. During the Mostra de Olaría, held in mid-August, you'll have the opportunity to see the old community kiln working.
Following the course of the River Anllóns, we arrive at Cabana de Bergantiños, where you can hike a rather gentle and well-marked trail through the Rego dos Muíños, or do Roncaduiro. It was precisely the roar of the water descending from waterfall to waterfall that triggered the construction the 24 mills that are preserved here and gave its name to this brook. With this sound still ringing in our ears, we finally reach the fortified pre-Roman Iron Age village in Borneiro known as A Cibdá ("the City" in Old Spanish) which was inhabited between the sixth century BC and the first century AD. In the Castle of Santo Antón (Castle of Saint Anthony) in A Coruña you can visit most of the remains found here. The hillfort is surrounded by a moat and two defensive walls along its perimeter, except for the eastern side, where the slope itself acts as a natural defence. From here, you can observe – just as its inhabitants used to – all of the surrounding territory.
Still in Cabana de Bergantiños, we leave A Cibdá to pay a visit to the "cathedral of Galician megalithic" the Dombate dolmen and its interpretation centre. This approximately 6,000-year-old funerary monument consists of a mass of earth partially covered by a stony shell with horizontal flat stones on the outside, while the inside has been constructed of closely fitted stones.
After this immersion in megalithic culture, next we head to Zas to visit the Torres do Allo. The shadow of the narrow, oak-lined road seems to create a time warp tunnel that transports us straight to the manor house, one of the oldest in Galicia. This building – one of the best examples of Galician civil architecture – now houses the Centro de Interpretación dos Recursos Turísticos e Patrimoniais do Territorio de Costa da Morte (Interpretation Centre for Tourist and Heritage Resources of the Territory of the Costa da Morte). Of a clearly Renaissance style, the most interesting architectural motifs are found at the top of the towers, round the windows, which are decorated with late Gothic elements.
In August, Zas becomes the folk music capital as it hosts a long-running festival in the "carballeira" (oak grove) which gives its name to this celebration.
To end the day, nothing beats a good "caldeirada" (stew) made of skate, conger eel or pollack, a dish that you simply cannot pass up all along the Costa da Morte.

My trip

A miña viaxe

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