The Marina of Lugo is an inexhaustible source of natural wonders that coexist with spectacular historical heritage.

This stretch of the Galician coast, washed by the waters of the Cantabrian Sea, hides magical legends of mermaids and sailors among the whimsical shapes of its cliffs.

The beach invites you to lie down on its smooth rocks, where rocked by the rhythmical waves you can sunbathe or take a pleasant nap.
 
Going up to Roncadoira lighthouse is the toughest part of the route; seagulls seem to lose their balance while the waves crash with great force into the cliffs.

Day 1

We start our journey in the town of Ribadeo in the mouth of the River Eo, the natural borderline with Asturias, in the heart of the Marina of Lugo. The splendid past of the town can be seen by taking a stroll through the charming historical centre, full of beautiful constructions built by returning emigrants from South America. When we come to the port, we can take a short walk along a rugged cliff. In the middle of the route, stop to admire the Cantabrian flysch from the Santa Cruz viewpoint, almost 200 metres above sea level. From there we can also see Pancha Island and two picturesque blue and white lighthouses. The shorter of the two has a square layout and dates from the late nineteenth century, while the other is much more recent, built in 1987.

Due to the orography of the Cantabrian coast, we are in an ideal area for hikers. Put on some comfortable shoes because the routes at the foot of these cliffs are the best way of enjoying this coastline.

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Heading further west, we come to the fishing village of Rinlo, very well-known for its cuisine. The most famous dish is lobster with rice, although the octopus, empanada pie and other delights on the menu are not far behind.

If we want to walk the food down, we can keep going to Os Castros beach and the seashore through an original and natural tunnel. The beach invites you to lie down on its smooth rocks, where rocked by the rhythmical waves you can sunbathe or take a pleasant nap.

With renewed energy we head off towards one of the best-known beaches in the north - Augas Santas – internationally known As Catedrais beach (Cathedrals Beach). The name comes from the characteristic arch-shaped rock formations, some of them broken by the rough sea. Apart from its beauty, there are numerous caves where the sea is so powerful that it makes them bigger and bigger, so you have to be careful when visiting them. When the tide is in you can visit the beach on the top of the cliff, keeping a safe distance. If you come at low tide, go down the steps to the sand to discover the magnitude of these impressive arches. If you wish to know the tide times before you visit the beach, you can visit the Meteogalicia web site.

If there is still daylight, we can go on a little further down the coast, where the built-up areas are no less charming - a good time to stop and come to Peizás beach, more solitary than the others in the area. To finish off the day, there is nothing better than sitting down to watch the sunset at Fazouro hill fort, an enclave at the foot of the cliffs. It is very windy here and this invites you to hunch up inside a hollow in the walls, feeling their heat after they have been exposed to the sun all day long.

Day 2

The second day of the route continues down the coast towards the Sargadelos porcelain factory half-way between the fishing town of Burela and Cervo. Located in a well cared for town, you cannot miss the circular building where this characteristic porcelain is made, decorated and finished by hand. The factory was built in 1970. The manufacturing process of the porcelain, which initially arose in the early nineteenth century, is extremely interesting. We would encourage you to make your visit coincide with opening hours so that you can visit the production floor and then stroll around the exhibition and shop.

The exhibition consists of the first pieces by Sargadelos and a broad selection of popular Spanish and foreign porcelain. More modern pieces are also genuine porcelain jewels to surprise someone as a typical gift from Galicia. The other Sargadelos factory is in Castro, in the province of A Coruña.

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Another equally attractive legend from the area tells how in front of Cape San Cibrao, in the municipality of Cervo, there are some small islands known as “Os Farallóns”. There was a mermaid who lived there, called “A Maruxaina”, and when the weather is bad she comes out to call sailors. Some think that she does this to help them when in danger, but there are others who say that her intention is to deceive them and sink their boats. In reference to this legend, an old tradition was recovered some years ago. Residents make a mermaid with long golden hair out of a rock, and at nightfall on the second Saturday of August they take her from Os Farallóns to the beach of San Cibrao. She is subjected to a popular trial and is absolved. She is then taken back to the islands and remains hidden there for the rest of the year.

Continuing our route, we come to Xove, where we turn northwards to the stunning lighthouse of Punta Roncadoira. The way is well signposted in the picturesque villages and green meadows, and changes as we go up – it becomes wilder thanks to the great eucalyptus trees, bent over by the wind, the huge rocks that cast shadows, and above all, the cold. Remember to go equipped for the north-east wind that blows with force in this area.

On the edge of the cliff you will hear the roaring of the sea beating against the rocks. This is the toughest part of the route. Seagulls seem to lose their balance, the waves crash with great force … but the impeccable lighthouse of Roncadoira makes us fall in love with the place. The stylish light, immaculate white, well cared for and with a very comfortable access affords us a view of the Cantabrian coast with its little islands inhabited only by seagulls and other sea birds.

With this sensation of wild peace we come down from Roncadoira and head towards Viveiro, stopping at Esteiro beach, still in the municipality of Xove. The landscape is more pleasant and there is a rest area ideal for a picnic or a stroll at any time of year. A wooden walkway takes us to the beach, more sheltered, at the entrance of the Viveiro estuary. In the same direction, we go up Monte Faro. It is worth it just for the views, and now that you are here, you can even walk to the lighthouse – you will find it hidden among the eucalyptus trees. If you are quick, you will still have time to discover the town of Viveiro and to enjoy a good meal. Fresh fish from the docks of Celeiro is an excellent way to bring the route along the Cantabrian coast of Lugo to an end.

Arriba