MUXÍA – FISTERRA
After breakfast we set off towards the seafaring town of Muxía, whose name means land of monks. On the way there we find two interesting monasteries: San Martiño de Ozón, with one of Galicia’s largest stone granaries close by, where you must not forget to take the “typical Galician snapshot”, and San Xián de Moraime, 12th century work carried out by the school of Master Mateo, the famous sculptor of the Pórtico da Gloria of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
And in Muxía, we recommend parking the car and taking a calm stroll along the seafront, the dock of Don Manolo and the square known as Praza da Constitución. Then continue along the seafront, with the estuary of Camariñas to your right, climb up to the ‘maritime’ Gothic style church of Santa María, with an unusual bell tower that stands on the rocks and is set apart from the temple. From there a trail with views of the conger eel drying facilities leads us to the Sanctuary of the Virxe da Barca (Our Lady of the Boat), that dominates the sea, where the magical Christianised rocks are located and that heighten the miraculous powers of the Virgin who appeared to the apostle Saint James. The “Pedra de Abalar” (Balancing Rock) would be the hull of the Virgin’s boat, the “Pedra dos Cadrís” (Kidney Rock) would be the sails, and the “Pedra do Temón” (Rudder Rock) would be the boat’s rudder. Here the waves of the Atlantic Ocean beat violently and invite us to disconnect from the madding crowd for a while.
It is almost lunchtime and we can return to the village along the western side of the peninsula of Muxía to the town centre, to taste a typical caldeirada de pescado (fish stew), with conger eel, pollack and ray.
In the afternoon we continue our itinerary by heading towards Fisterra, where we visit the Romanesque church of Santa María das Areas, located where the road that leads to the lighthouse of the End of the World begins. Later, continuing along the same path, we can park the car and take an easy trail (4 km) up to the chapel of Monte de San Guillerme (Saint William’s Mount), where the magical rock, the so-called Cama do Santo (Saint’s Bed) is located. It is an ancient anthropomorphic slab linked since prehistoric times to cults and fertility rites.
The icing on the cake is the Lighthouse of Fisterra, that in ancient times was believed to be the end of the known world. Witness the spectacle of the sun setting over the sea, that will lead you to wonder if this is in fact the end of the world or the beginning of heaven.