Turismo de Galicia

The origins of this fortress date back to the ninth century, when Bermudo II took refuge in it during the battle of Portela Arenaria, today Vilasobroso, the village you see in front. From that time, Sobroso has been a silent witness of the vicissitudes of many of Galicia's historic personalities, particularly due to its role as a military stronghold, which it finally ended up losing. Its corridors have been walked by the Counts of Galicia in 1095, Urraca and Raymond of Burgundy; the "irmandiños" (peasant revolts against feudal oppression) during the riots that destroyed the castle in the second half of the fifteenth century; and Pedro Alvarez de Soutomaior – Pedro Madruga (Peter the Early Riser) – who subsequently rebuilt it.

Currently, this defensive bastion is the home of the Museo do Traxe Galego (Galician Costume Museum) and the Ethnographic Museum. Wander through the corridors and rooms; see a permanent exhibition on the lives of our ancestors and gain a better understanding of our culture. You'll see the kitchen, with its utensils and hearth, the nobles' quarters, bedrooms with linen bedspreads – an old handicraft to which part of the exhibition is devoted – just like the work of the basket makers, "zoqueiros" (clogmakers), tile makers and carpenters, among others.

As you stroll the surroundings, you'll discover that the fort is composed of three structures of different heights that overlap one another, giving it an imposing air. On the way back, if you'd like to take a break, take a moment to explore the trees of the forest, where about 40 different species grow, especially oaks and other varieties associated with Mediterranean climates as a the cork oak, the "strawberry tree" and laurels. There are also recreational areas and wildlife living in semi-freedom.

Next, we head to the heart of the town of Ponte Caldelas to go a little further back in history. In the Área Arqueolóxica de Tourón (Archeaological Area of Tourón) you'll find one of the most unique outdoor rock art complexes in Galicia. Follow the markers and visit the five stations where you'll see the petroglyphs and rock engravings, dating from the late Neolithic-Bronze Age. Then pay a visit to the  Archaeological Centre to see how they interpreted the landscape of that period.

From pre-Roman hillfort art, we'll take a leap to the traditional arts of our country, as shown in watermills. In the Rego do Portiño – a tributary of the River Maior – as it flows through the municipality of Vilaboa, you'll find the Riomaior mills. A small, and not very long, trail will take you from one mill to another. There are 34 and almost all have been renovated, accompanied by the magical stream and small waterfalls, until the last one, called the Miguel Lois Mill. Once back, go up the same wooden walkways, bridges and stairs while the shade and coolness of the plant life will ease your steps.

You can take advantage of the moment to lunch at one of the establishments in the Vilaboa's port, overlooking the estuary: fresh fish and seafood are the undisputed stars of their most mouth-watering dishes.

Next, we head to the coast of the Vigo estuary and cross the bay of San Simon as far as the O Morrazo peninsula, where we'll pay a visit to the cross of Hío, in the town of Cangas. But first, take the road up to the summit of Mount Facho, where you'll find more rock art in an old Galician pre-Roman hilltop fort, with remains from the tenth century BC, and spend a few moments enjoying the delightfully clear view of the coast you have just left behind. Towards the horizon you'll see the outline of the Cíes Islands, protecting the estuary, and Cape Home, the point of the continent that they're closest to.

Also part of the Conxunto Monumental do Hío (O Hío Monumental Complex) is the church of the same name. You'll identify its various architectural styles and forms, such as the domes, reminiscent of the monastery of San Martiño Pinarioo in Santiago de Compostela. But undoubtedly the most important piece of the complex is the original late-nineteenth-century Baroque cross, considered one of the most important of Galicia. Every 16th August after the end of Mass, the traditional fourteenth-century "Dance of San Roque" or "Two Pilgrims" (declared a Galician Tourist Event) is performed in front.

Our journey now takes us towards the coast of the Pontevedra estuary – specifically, the town of Marin – where we will find the petroglyophs of Mogor Labyrinth, very near the beach of the same name. There are still some specimens left, depicting sets of concentric circles associated with each other, like a maze. There are several interpretations of their meaning. Some say that they are the work of the same seafaring people who colonised western Europe in the Neolithic; others, that are a prehistoric calendar, or that the ensemble has no practical purpose in measuring time, but rather is sacred, artistic and symbolic. Whatever the explanation is, kneel down and run your fingers along the lines on the stone and feel the weight of history.

The best way to end this day is to watch the sunset from the boardwalk of Mogor beach.

The unique topography of this place makes sense of the seventeen mills that form a large hydraulic complex. You can see them while you take the road that runs parallel to the canal under the coolness of the riparian forest. Most are camouflaged by the landscape and because they are the same colour as the granite base of the waterfall. The deafening sound of falling water is intense even in the summer, when you can take the opportunity to cool off in the pools, a perfect chance to feel the coolness of this water in your skin.

Very close by, the history of the town of Moraña is materialised in the abundant prehistoric elements such as the Lapa de San Martiño de Gargantáns, which dates back to 3000 – 2000 BC. This two-metre-high monolith demonstrates its importance as it is included in the municipal coat-of-arms. When you get close, besides noting its simplicity and cone shape engraved on both sides, you'll realise that it is broken, which suggests that this was not its original situation and that it might have been taller. Its exact function is unknown but some connect it with funeral signs, old territorial boundaries between tribes or even with a monument to the sun.

Our journey continues inland, a good place to learn about our prehistoric culture: the Parque Arqueolóxico da Arte Rupestre de Campo Lameiro (Archaeological Park of Campo Lameiro). This is an outdoor complex where you will find nearly one hundred petroglyphs in their environmental context and over 80 interpretive panels, as well as a recreation of a Bronze Age village. You'll feel as if you had travelled back 4,000 years in time. Campo Lameiro is considered one of the greatest archaeological sites in Europe and is the largest in the northwestern peninsula.

Back on the road – and something closer to the present – we head off to the town of Cerdedo and find the Eira de Pedre (Stone Threshing Floor). Surrounded by the pre-seventeenth-century church and houses built with the traditional architecture of this part of the province of Pontevedra, you'll find a restored set of granaries in the so-called Eira Grande. This large communal space, where the soil is formed by large slabs of dark stone, speaks of subsistence farming and the particular economy and organisation of the people of that period.

Just metres away, a trail runs parallel to the River Lérez. Take a walk in this green and silent valley as the day ends, and watch as the light fades while you lose yourself on an old pilgrims' path, between fields and pastures. The trail runs along an old Roman bridge, with a peculiar cobblestone floor. A gentle finish for two intense days.