Fire stains, fire cleanses. This is how Óscar Vidal sums up the function of his work tool - embers - which he stokes with a paipai brought from Japan, a country whose gastronomy he admires and which he relates to Galicia. Vidal is meticulous in his selection of wood, using holm oak and fruit tree to cook vegetables and seafood, while the oak is reserved for meat.

    He uses two grills to prepare the Rescaldo, creating a harmonious melody of textures and flavours with cuttlefish, home-grown eggs, lobster, razor shell and peppers. Even part of the desserts Peido de lobo or Tarta de Padrón are made on the grill.

    His skilled use of fire produces velvety and succulent mouthfuls that reflect the traditional flavours of Galicia. Local fish and seafood, sourced from Rianxo and Ribeira, are the stars of Vidal's cuisine, although many of his customers come in search of his superb Bandeira Rubia Gallega beef chop, which simply melts in the mouth.

    A tireless researcher who advocates a trial and error approach, Vidal experiments with the fermentation of vegetables, especially cabbage, but also the maturation of pompano and bonito. From the vegetable garden, the guisante lágrima (tear pea) is his favourite and is the only product that he grows himself.

    In the dining room at Santiaguiño do Monte - named after a popular local outdoor festival of grilled food - head waiter Manuel Vidal sets the pace. The wood and metal decor alludes to the grills and the spotlights overhead are suggestive of the flickering embers. There is a large table, carved from an old magnolia tree, in the centre. Some pieces of the tableware are made by the local potter Unzueta in Brión, using the ash from the restaurant kitchen.

    Oscar prefers to describe himself as a self-taught cook and griller, rather than a chef. Experience has taught him that it is only by using the finest quality products that he can create amazing dishes, and for this he only needs a handful of ingredients.