As an advocate for gastronomy as a cultural transmitter, Javier Olleros, together with Amaranta Rodríguez, spearheads his project materialised at Culler de Pau. This restaurant is located in the rural setting of O Grove, just a short distance from the sea. Its vegetable garden has become a central hub, pulsating with inspiration, knowledge and learning - feeding a team continuously exploring its culinary roots.
The daily activity starts early in the morning with the collection of herbs for infusions and vegetables for cooking from among more than three hundred species. A multitude of smells flutter among the birdsong, particularly concentrated in the greenhouse, whose wooden and glass structure houses a long worktable that has become the perfect complement for advancing the restaurant's research and development (R&D). Meanwhile, the chef visits the market, maintaining close contact with sellers, sailors, as well as shellfish and agricultural farmers.
The commitment to sustainability extends to the creation of compost from the generated waste and involves collaboration and mediation between farmers and the Misión Biolóxica de Galicia, a research centre that works on the conservation and improvement of native crop varieties, such as the millet corvo (black corn) or the guisante lágrima (teardrop pea). In this context, Culler de Pau regards education as a pivotal key to engage society in both individual and collective awareness.
The restaurant's architecture embodies a minimalist style, showcasing the craftsmanship of Galician designers, like Arturo Álvarez in lighting and Verónica Moar in the choice of tableware.
The dining room is a viewpoint overlooking the Arousa estuary, a pantry with an almost infinite biodiversity. Offering three menus—Descuberta, Marexada, and Ronsel—where vegetables, worked under the direction of head chef Takahide Tamakama as a creative challenge, are given the same importance as resources of greater economic value, such as seafood, fish or meat, which complete the offer.
The dishes offered on the menu are crafted as an alternative means to explore O Grove from a gastronomic point of view, as well as from a heritage, natural or ethnographic point of view. The flavour experiences are adapted to the season, aligning with the organic produce from the garden and the offerings of local suppliers. The menus, balanced and healthy, are designed to bring enjoyment to diners, complemented by an enjoyable learning experience.
Passionate about his profession and his homeland, Olleros anchored his proposal in this area some fifteen years ago. Commitment to his profession and homeland defines his positioning, and it is customary for him and his team to wear T-shirts featuring phrases like Mariñeiro da horta (Sailor of the garden) or Intérprete do territorio (Interpreter of the territory), a philosophy that marks the path of Culler de Pau.