This route takes us to beautiful and stunning places, such as Santo André de Teixido, the Serra da Capelada and Cape Ortegal and its Aguillóns, huge rocks which emerge fiercely near the cape and against which the waves beat with all their force. You can also go to Estaca de Bares, the northernmost point of the Iberian Peninsula, where the waters of the Cantabrian Sea and the Atlantic Ocean converge, without doubt a good way to admire the ferocity of our waters in all their splendour.

The beautiful Picón-Loiba cliffs were chosen as the set for various films.
Estaca de Bares is the northernmost point on the Iberian Peninsula and the dividing line between the Atlantic Ocean and the Cantabrian Sea.

Day 1

While in Cedeira, do not miss the chance to visit the sanctuary of San Andrés de Teixido and to fulfil the popular saying: “if you don’t go when you are alive, you will when are dead”. Do not forget, then, as tradition says, to leave a stone on the “milladoiros” (small piles of stones) at the roadside as proof of your visit. And if you wish to find a partner, get some love herbs, you never know …

We continue now towards Cariño, going up the Serra da Capelada to the Garita da Herbeira. From this viewpoint, you will see how the cliffs fall almost vertically in a sea dotted with rocks. These are some of the highest cliffs in Europe. When you come to Herbeira viewpoint, the highest part of this ascent, breathe deeply and feel the immensity of the earth, the strength of the wind and the peace that this place transmits.

We now keep going to Cape Ortegal, where one of the most photographed lighthouses in the area is located. Its importance contrasts with the simplicity of the cylinder tower painted red and white. There are several reasons for its fame, but the “Aguillóns” really stand out in the landscape – huge rocks which emerge fiercely near the cape and against which the waves beat with all their force, especially on stormy days when they become an impressive show of great force. The estuary of Ortigueira extends to the right with its stretches of cliffs and beaches.

The beauty of this place, where the wind will try to play with you, deserves another moment of inspiration looking out to sea before continuing towards the small chapel of San Xiao de Trebo. From this building, a path joins the route on foot with the fishing village of Cariño. If you are visiting the area at lunch time, do not miss the chance to taste a delicious “ray stew” or “scrambled eggs with sea urchins and seaweed”, typical products in the local cuisine that will fill you with the salt taste of the sea. If it is during the week, you will find several traditional canning factories open, where you will be able to buy a delicious and tasty little piece of the sea.

Our journey now continues towards Ortigueira, where the River Mera forms a beautiful estuary that can already be seen when returning from Cape Ortegal. From the town port of the villa, you can take a walk of about four kilometres to Morouzos beach. Quiet and calm for swimming, there is a pine tree wood and an area of marshes and reeds; on the right is the little bay of Ladrido. In mid-July, the pine tree wood becomes a huge campsite for the audience of the Ortigueira Festival, an essential date for the summer and one of the world’s benchmark folk events since 1978.

The restaurants by the beach give its reputation to our next stop, Espasante, where you will be able to try delicious seafood. At night, some bars still have a cosy atmosphere with traditional music where clients can join in with popular songs. But let us leave this moment of fun for later. For now, the cliffs will give you a surprise by when you find the coastal hill fort of Punta dos Prados at the end of the peer. Nearby is the beach of Céltigos, virtually unspoilt, from where you can enjoy striking views of Cape Ortegal and its “Aguillóns”. You will also visit the beaches of San Antonio, Eirón, where one of the largest caves in area lies, and Bimbieiro, the only pebble beach on this stretch of the Loiba coastline. An area of high cliffs, a walk along the barnacle paths will help you understand the difficulties these shellfish workers face every day. If the route coincides with spring tides, you will be able to go down to the beaches to see the fauna; and if it is a working day, you will probably find barnacle gatherers, octopus fishers, seaweed collectors, sea urchin catchers or three-bearded rockling fishermen doing their daily work, without doubt a beautiful scene that makes the wealth of these waters very clear.

Day 2

For the second day of the journey, we head for O Barqueiro, but before coming into the town, we take the diversion towards Bares to go up to the cape and the lighthouse. Co-ordinates 43º 47' 9.26’’ N, 07º 41' 2.23" W are the ones that are always included in the presentation card of Estaca de Bares, the northernmost cape in the Iberian Peninsula and the dividing point between the Atlantic Ocean and the Cantabrian Sea. If you take binoculars, you will see that this is an important transit zone for migratory birds of the Atlantic, Mediterranean and the Arctic.

You can reach the old Semáforo de Bares, which left its former military functions in the past and became a nature hotel. From there, you can enjoy a very special and symbolic twilight. Keep going now along the edge of the cliffs until you come to a number of mills in line, some of which have been restored – this will leave you with a nice image.

Finish the day by going down the port of Bares, where you will have the chance to try fresh fish or rice with blue lobster on a terrace next to the beach. Surrounded by orchards and generally empty, it is immersed in a magical atmosphere.

These two days were full of beaches, cliffs and lighthouses located in emblematic places, always with the north-eastern wind as your companion, which will give you clear skies.