Muxía, with its many points of interest, is a visit not to be missed on the Costa da Morte route. The population centre, surrounded by beautiful beaches, sits on a peninsula that protects the entrance to the Camariñas Estuary. Here one can breathe in the seafaring atmosphere, as the sea is the basic source of income for most of its inhabitants.
It principal mark of identity is the Shrine to the Virxe da Barca (Virgin of the Boat), the setting of one of the most important and colourful pilgrimages held in Galicia. During the four days following the second Sunday in September, thousands of people take part in this celebration, which has been declared a Festival of National Tourist Interest. Particularly popular is the maritime procession in honour of the Virgin. The pilgrims from Compostela used to come to this western tip of Europe, near the mythical Fisterra, to finalise their route along the Road to Santiago. The shrine is made up of a rector house and a church. The latter was built in 1719, although some sources state that it was a place of worship since the 15th century or even before. The two towers on the façade were built in 1958.
Profound pantheistic roots can be perceived in the rites of the pilgrimage. The Christian tradition tells the story of how the Virgin, sailing in a stone boat, appeared before Saint James (Santiago) to comfort him and encourage him in his difficult apostolic mission in these End of the World lands. In testimony of this visitation, close to the shrine there are three large stones, said to be the boat, its sail and its rudder. The first of these is known as the "Pedra dos Cadrís" (Kidneys Stone), and legend has it that he or she who passes nine times under the stone will be freed from backache. The second, a huge stone slab that rocks under the weight of the devotees, is called the "Pedra de Abalar" (Swinging Stone).
To fully comprehend the significance of this tradition, one has to take into account that legends of stone ships are frequently found in the European Atlantic regions. In Ireland, Cornwall, Wales, Scotland and Brittany, there are tales of saints journeying in stone vessels. Another important monument to be found in Muxía is the Santa María Parish Church. It was built between the 13th and 14th centuries. It contains Romanesque and Gothic elements. Its only nave is of basilica design.
From the route that leads to the shrine, we can see some curious conger eel drying frames. These are situated close to the dike. In other times, the Costa da Morte had numerous installations of this type, but nowadays these are the only ones still in operation. They supply mainly the Catalonian and Aragon markets. The conger eel is placed on wooden frames called "cabrias", where it is left to be dried by the sun and the wind.