DAY 1: SUNSET AT FISTERRA

We´ll start the day in Fisterra, a peaceful fishing village where we can find the first reference to the sun in the Ara Solis Square and street of the same name. This name is a tribute to the legendary altar that is said to have existed at Cape Fisterra to hold sun-worshipping rituals. This square is home to the Casa do Cuadrante, a 13th-century building that may have been a former pilgrims’ hospital. Its façade houses a beautiful clock, a witness to the passing of time, whose movement is governed by the action of the sun, the main character of our narrative.

Close by is the Castle of San Carlos, converted into an interesting museum dedicated to fishing and seafaring. Then we’ll reach Santa María das Areas, a church of great architectural beauty that is closely linked to the Way of Saint James. The ruins of the San Guillerme Sanctuary are nearby, and the remains of ancient cults and magical beliefs attributed to its stones can be observed among them.

During the equinoxes, from the entrance to the sanctuary, we can see the first rays of the sun at dawn on the Alto da Moa, the summit of the impressive Monte Pindo.
In the afternoon we’ll still have time to go down to the Mar de Fora Beach, battered by a raging ocean that pounds its shores, before heading to Cape Fisterra to enjoy the first sunset of this trip.
 
From here, a cradle of pagan cults and a natural stronghold of this stretch of the Costa da Morte, we’ll witness the spectacle offered by the sinking of the sun in the Sea of Darkness, the same the Roman Emperor Decimus Junius Brutus probably observed during his conquest of this territory on the frontier of his empire.

After this journey through the town of Fisterra, we propose a visit to O Rostro Beach to enjoy the privileged views offered by this stretch of coastline, where the sky reflected in the wet sand seems to merge with the sea.
In the afternoon we can go up to the scenic viewpoint of Veladoiro, with Cape da Nave down below. This is the land of the legendary city of Dugium, a kingdom ruled by the Nerians, an ancient Celtic people who refused to submit to the Christianisation imposed around the cult of Saint James and who, as punishment, were swallowed up by the ocean.

Recommendations
In Vilar de Duio, where a toponym connected with the legendary city of Dugium is still conserved, the parishes of San Vicente and San Martín reflect rural life on the outskirts of the ancient empire. Fields of crops, meadows, hórreos (raised stone granaries) still in use and parish churches shape the image of inland Fisterra.
Dates of interest
Dawn of the autumn equinox (around 21 September) and spring equinox (around 21 March) at the ruins of the San Guillermo Sanctuary. From the entrance, looking due East, perfectly aligned with the ruins, behind the Moa peak on Monte Pindo.
Easter Sunday in the vicinity of Santa María das Areas. The Danza dos Paos is performed, a dance whose tradition and history dates back to the 17th century. The dance is considered to be related to the celebration of the Holy Christ during Easter in Fisterra, and declared to be of National Public Interest.
 

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