The central massif comprises a series of mountain ranges that run across the province of Ourense. The valleys on the northern side offer delightful routes among meadows and the holly bushes, oaks and birch trees that cover the slopes of the mountains up to the rocky peaks of the San Mamede, Burgo, Queixa and Cabeza de Manzaneda ranges. They are not the highest mountains in Galicia but their beauty is undeniable.

Montederramo is the ideal starting point for this route. Its welcoming central square adjoins the Santa María Monastery, an architectural jewel that combines various styles. Shortly after leaving Montederramo there is a turning towards O Bidueiral, a stand of birch trees (Betula alba) reminiscent of a Scandinavian wood, but in the south of Galicia.

Following the course of the River Mao, the route passes through a series of villages which blend perfectly into a landscape of bocage, small plots of farmland with their old stone enclosures and hedges. In the distance the Serra de San Mamede can be seen, changing according to the time of year.

After San Fiz, the route turns to reveal the broad Queixa valley, with the mountain range of the same name providing a picturesque backdrop. The road then runs along the side of the Queixa reservoir, going over the dam to cross it.

The route through Chandrexa de Queixa heads towards Manzaneda, the only mountain ski resort in Galicia.

Cabeza Grande de Manzaneda (1,781 metres) is a major landmark, as it is the highest mountain in Ourense’s central massif and forms part of a chain bordering the Bibei valley.

The descent to the town of Manzaneda offers views from a different side of the mountains, those from the lookout point at Chaira das Lamas being particularly impressive. Against the backdrop of the mountains, the landscape is characterised by scrubland and extensive pastures, testifying to the historical importance of livestock in the area. As the road descends the first groves of trees appear, including legendary examples such as the Castiñeiro de Pumbariños, an enormous chestnut tree in Rozavales.

The town stands on a plain and retains its mediaeval layout with part of the walls intact. The Porta da Vila gate (twelfth century) is the most important vestige of this defensive structure, which was originally over 400 metres long. From here Rúa da Igrexa (also known as Rúa do Medio) leads through the mediaeval centre with its carefully conserved narrow streets to San Martiño Church.

The town’s defences were completed with the castle, parts of which remain and have been turned into a lookout point. The Irmandiño revolts led to the destruction of the mediaeval tower and the castle was rebuilt in the sixteenth century on the orders of the Counts of Ribadavia. The new building included a prison known as the Cárcere dos Sarmiento, reflecting the lineage of the counts. Today it is used as a cultural centre.